2020 Domaine de Montille Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Burgundy – buy online

WHO?

Founded in the mid-18th century, Domaine de Montille is one of the oldest family-run estates on the Côte d’Or. It is currently managed by the ninth generation of the family, Etienne de Montille, who inherited the estate from his late father, Hubert. Hubert Montille managed the estate for an incredible 50 years. During a period when 90% of the region’s production was sold to négociants, he gained fame for bottling estate-grown wines that were long-lived and distinctive. Etienne was an early advocate of organic farming, which he introduced to the estate’s vineyards in 1995. Biodynamic practices followed in 2005, and the estate received ‘Ecocert Bio’ certification in 2012. Wine production at Domaine de Montille has evolved over the years. Etienne, who studied enology and worked as Hubert’s apprentice, sought a progressive approach to vinification compared to his father’s traditional methods. Gradually, Hubert allowed his son more control, and Etienne’s influence on wine production became noticeable from the late 1990s.

WHERE?

Clos-Vougeot was established around 1150 by Cistercian monks. It spans 50 hectares of vineyards and is notable for its location, history, and excellent wines. Today, about 80 owners share this prestigious vineyard plot. De Montille’s 0.29-hectare parcel is located in the upper section of an area called “Dix Journaux” (which divides the Clos into thirds) and benefits from good elevation. The wine is more elegant than powerful, a finesse derived from the strength of the terroir in the upper part of Clos-Vougeot. The winery has practiced organic viticulture since 1995, and production was certified organic in 2012. Since 2005, they have transitioned to biodynamic viticulture.

WHY?

The 2020 vintage began with ideally mild winter conditions—cold and abundant rainfall, perfect for sap flow and pruning. Spring brought ideal climate conditions that resulted in healthy vegetative growth. Summer temperatures soared, and the region had almost no rain, causing some vineyards to suffer from heat stress. However, regular winds refreshed the vines and prevented disease development. Wines from 2020 offer a good degree of ripeness and quite high acidity.