2019 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru’ Les Malconsorts’, Burgundy – buy online

WHO?

Founded in the mid-18th century, Domaine de Montille is one of the oldest family-run estates on the Côte d’Or. It is currently managed by the ninth generation of the family, Etienne de Montille, who inherited the estate from his late father, Hubert. Hubert Montille managed the estate for an impressive 50 years. During a time when 90% of the region’s production was sold to négociants, he gained fame for bottling estate-grown wines that were long-lived and distinctive. Etienne was an early advocate of organic farming, which he introduced to the estate’s vineyards in 1995. Biodynamic practices followed in 2005, and the estate received ‘Ecocert Bio’ certification in 2012. Wine production at Domaine de Montille has evolved over the years. Etienne, who studied enology and worked as Hubert’s apprentice, sought a progressive approach to vinification compared to his father’s traditional methods. Gradually, Hubert allowed his son more control, and Etienne’s influence on wine production became noticeable from the late 1990s.

WHERE?

Vosne-Romanée (153 hectares) is home to some of the most precious and rare wines in the world. A parcel south of the famous Grand Cru La Tâche (a monopole of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti) is called “Aux Malconsorts.” This appellation, with a total area of 5.86 hectares, has an exceptional location with altitude, exposure, and soil type very similar to its renowned neighbor. Domaine de Montille has the privilege of working with two parcels in “Les Malconsorts,” one covering 0.89 hectares and spanning the entire vineyard from bottom to top with varying soils in the upper part (light brown clay and gravel) that complement those at the bottom (dark red clay). The term “Malconsorts” is relatively little known but indicates a thorny history of ownership disputes over this magical place. Wines from Malconsorts exhibit exceptional finesse and elegance. Their aromatic complexity, floral, fragrant, often spicy notes are remarkable, with silky tannins, depth, and an ethereal body character that gives these wines a heavenly dimension.

WHY?

There is no specific recipe for wine production at this estate; instead, they adapt to the nuanced characteristics of each vintage. For red wines, this usually involves whole-cluster fermentation, ranging from 50% to 100%, although destemming is used when deemed desirable. Maceration typically lasts 12 to 16 days, with two daily punch-downs and careful use of new French oak, usually up to 30%. In the best vintages, for top cuvées, up to 50% new oak is used. The current production style at the estate remains true to the natural and classical character of the wines created by Hubert. Some vintages required a lot of patience but now show greater openness in bouquet as well as more silkiness and smoothness in texture. The estate pays special attention to the entire harvest, adjusting the proportion according to the terroir, age, and characteristics of the vines, and, of course, the specific vintage. Alcoholic fermentation mainly takes place in large wooden vats, and aging occurs in 228-liter barrel rooms. The estate has practiced organic viticulture since 1995, and since 2005, biodynamic practices have complemented these efforts to respect the soil and enhance overall vitality. Their wines are Ecocert certified.